New Import - Prieure La Chaume

And now, as they say, for something completely different!

Christian Chabirand did not grow up in a family of vignerons and spent the early part of his adult life travelling and undertaking a variety of work, including taking the position of president of a young company in the Languedoc Roussillon. Over this time he became increasingly interested and passionate about wine and returned to university to study oenology. Following his qualification, he gained experience producing wine in Spain, managing a domaine in Provence and working in other regional organisations within the French wine industry.

Finally, in 1997 he returned to his birthplace and purchased his own domaine, which was to become Prieure La Chuame. Nothing too surprising, one might think, however, whilst the property that Christian chose was indeed a farm, the 45 ha he acquired had never previously been under vine. Today the domaine has around 14 hectares of vines, planted on a hillside of marly limestone which is rich in microbial life, giving increased resistance to disease. Christian has adopted organic methods of viticulture, short pruning and low yields. Located in the South Vendee, on the former island of Poitevin marshland, Prieure La Chaume is the most southerly vineyard of the Loire Valley, being equidistant from the Loire and the Medoc. With this in mind, and due to the fact the farm is situated outside the restrictive border of the Appellation Controllee, Christian was able to select the vines he felt most suitable for the terroir and which he most wanted to work with. A choice, which is as far removed from the Chenin and Cabernet Franc I had tasted in the Loire, as it is from Gauntley's beloved Grenache, Syrah and Riesling! Reflecting the proximity to the Medoc, the main grape for Christian's red wines, is the Merlot, with a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon and Negrette which he uses in the blend of the outstanding Orfeo. Indeed these wines are probably the closest we will get to working in Bordeaux! Whilst I might have been a little reticent to learn the cepage, I was soon won over by the refined style of the line-up.

The first red, the Bel Canto, is a tribute to an opera singer, Genevieve X1V, who became famous for her performance of Bel Canto, said to be 'soft, elegant and swingy'. Produced from 100% Merlot, grown on the westerly slopes facing the Atlantic Ocean. Aged for two years in cuve, the fruit here is indeed, vibrant, elegant and expressive. It is a wine to enjoy in its youth, but nevertheless has a touch of class. It reminds me a little of the Tempranillo from Artadi. Not that the fruit character or profile are alike, but that this is an entry level wine, which reflects its breeding.

The 2008 Orfeo, inspired by the musical and poetic work of Monteverdi and the Greek mythology of Orpheus, is something else again. Beautifully mature, but I suspect still not at its peak, this is a blend of 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Negrette. It is matured for 18months in burgundy barrels and bottled without filtration. This is fabulous, with wonderful intensity and stylish complexity offering aromas of ripe black berries, spice and very subtle hints of liquorice, but still with a restraint and finesse.

For the white wine, the Prima Donna, Christian took his inspiration from one of France's other great appellations, opting for what he describes as, the most famous and successful blend for white wine in the world, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. However, he also believes that Champagne is an 'industrial' wine, which requires the addition of sugar to achieve the secondary fermentation. By contrast, he is looking for the optimum ripeness in his grapes and a natural balance. The result is spectacular, with characteristics reminiscent of an intense Champagne. Lovely depth and complexity, multi-dimensional on the palate, but with an uplifting balance of acidity and great length.

These are really inspirational, classy wines, which offer an unexpected expression, with undeniable refinement.