The Brilliant Balance of Boxler
Alsace has always been recognised as the favourite region of wine merchants throughout the world. The amazingly diverse and exuberant styles of wines produced here are both incredibly alluring and thought provokingly thrilling.
As with all wines and regions of course, there is also a wide disparity in the quality of wines produced, from domaine to domaine. Part of the variation in quality is naturally due to the location and terroir of the vineyard, but another key factor is down to the skill and care of the vigneron. I know that for many of you, I will be preaching to the converted, when I say that the wines of Boxler are truly exceptional!
One of the key factors which make a successful wine is balance. However, all too often people become obsessed with numbers – be it percentages of alcohol or degrees of residual sugar. Understandably perhaps, this is particularly the case in Alsace, where there can be a significant variation in sweetness levels, not just between producers, but even the same wine by the same producer, from one vintage to the next. There are many wines that can be said to be technically in balance, although this is often achieved by manipulation, be it through, picking dates, chaptilisation, acidification or in some regions, de-acidification etc. However, despite the technical analysis on paper, the wine can somehow feel forced and lacking the true harmony of wine that has attained its natural balance. Jean is a genius at finding this natural balance! It is not only that his wines are beautiful examples of the variety, be it a steely Riesling, an aromatic Muscat or exquisite Gewurztraminer, nor is it simply because they brilliantly reflect the subtle complexities of terroir, but more importantly, that one element does not dominate or conflict with the other. Every note is in tune!
Whilst I am unashamedly a Riesling fanatic and would rate the examples Boxler produces from the Grand Cru Sommerberg, as amongst my all-time favourites, I am also always enthralled by the other varietals that Jean produces, which I think not only showcase his own magic, but also the exceptional aromatic expressions that are synonymous with this region. With grapes such as Muscat and Gewurztraminer, balance really is everything! Whilst there are many examples which are too rich, heavy and flabby, there are others which, in the hope of ‘winning the numbers game’, have been picked too early to ensure a moderate percentage of alcohol and zero grams per litre of residual sugar, but simply just taste harsh and aggressive.
With their wonderful harmony and seamless balance, Jean’s generic Muscat, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris Reserve, are delicious. These tantalizingly expressive varietals are also able to compliment a vast variety of dishes, which would eclipse many other wines.
Available in either a
2017 Pinot Gris Reserve
Sensational, luscious but earthy Pinot Gris from the granite soils around the village of Niedermorschwihr. Wonderfully ripe, apricot fruit and subtle notes of ginger, combine with flinty minerality. Seamless and delicious! A great alternative to a red wine, to serve with roast pork or chicken and a perfect partner to a rich pate or cheese.
Beautifully pure and elegant bouquet offering clear aromas of rose, litchi, and Turkish Delight. Wonderfully pure and expressive on the palate, with delicious, ripe litchi styled fruit and subtle notes of ginger and spice. Not at all heavy. Vibrant and elegant. Wonderful with Thai curry or Cantonese style cuisine, perfect partnered with strong cheese or, as an old friend would have insisted, superb with smoked salmon!
Wonderful clean floral aromas of the Muscat. The palate is dry but intense, with deliciously ripe fruit, lovely fresh lift of acidity and subtle drive of minerality beneath. With irresistible charm and real finesse, this is the perfect wine to serve as an aperitif, with white fish and asparagus, or simply by the glass in the summer sun!