Domaine Francois Cotat

In today’s world of influential journalism, wine making and point scoring, new stars are created in every vintage. Over the years we have seen so many unassuming young growers rapidly gain celebrity status and over-night success. Whilst the majority do not let their sudden rise to fame go to their heads, almost without excep-tion, one can quickly spot the evidence, as new and bigger wineries appear complete with rows of gleaming stainless steel or toasty new oak barriques. Indeed Sancerre as an appellation enjoyed many years in the spot light, long before the wines of the new world flooded our shores. The prosperity the region enjoyed is once again all too clear to see as the ‘investments’ stand large and proud at every turn.

There is undoubtedly no domaine in Sancerre that developed such a ‘cult’ status as that of Domaine Cotat, which was run by Francis and Paul Cotat. Their vineyards were divided in 1998 and today Paul’s son Francois continues the family traditions from the 3 ha of vineyards he inherited, producing the same characterful vins de terroir. Seeking the ultimate expression, Francois always late picks and in certain years has had the wines declassified to Vin de Table status, as the residual sugar or alcohol levels are too high for the AC rule book. This is of little consequence to Francois who continues to avoid any intervention with the wine making and allows the wine to reflect the vintage. He continues to ferment the wines fermented in old barrique and the grapes are still pressed in an ancient wooden hand press. Only natural yeasts are used and the wines are never fined or filtered.

The limestone slopes which surround the picturesque village of Chavignol are the steepest of the appellation making any work in the vineyards exceedingly difficult. Hence the name, Les Monts Damnes! Damned or not, they do produce wines of exceptional character and complexity. Indeed the Cotat wines have little to do with ‘Sauvignon Blanc’ or classic ‘Sancerre’, but everything to do with terroir and individuality.
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