Nicolas Croze

The stand of Domaine Nicolas Croze was high on my hit list to visit at this year’s Decouverte. I was beginning to think that I would have to forgo the opportunity, as every time I went to approach their table, I found it to be hidden behind a swarm of thirsty tasters. Towards the end of the afternoon, as the crowds temporarily subsided, I seized my moment. I must admit that I was expecting the wait to prove to be an anti-climax. However, this was far from the case and I was so pleased that my patience had paid off. These wines were a real find, with beguiling pure fruit and harmonious balance.

Domaine Nicolas Croze is situated within the appellation Cotes du Rhone, in the village of Saint Martin d’Ardeche. Their 25 hectares of vines are spread over five communes; Aigueze, Saint Just, Saint Marcel, Pont St. Esprit and Saint Martin.

The Vineyards are beautifully sheltered and provide a rich diversity of terroirs, as John can bear witness to. During his visit here last May, the enthusiastic Nicolas Croze gave John a tour of each and every parcel. Of course, the different parcels allow them to produce cuvees of differing styles, from the easy drinking, fruit-driven wines on the Clay/limestone and sandy soils to the more racy and structured cuvees, produced on the higher, rocky/limestone sites. Over the past five years they have been working hard to improve the quality of the terroir, adopting the practice of lutte raisonnee, ensuring any treatments are only used when absolutely necessary and with controlled quantities. The harvest is always by hand to ensure a strict selection. They grow an array of southern French varietal, including, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan and Cinsault for the reds, with Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Viognier. The high altitude of the vineyards here, enable the vines to benefit from a longer than usual growing season. This is especially significant for the Syrah, which shows such delightful elegance here.

The two wines we have selected are the 2009 Cotes du Rhone and 2009 Cuvee Les Petits Coins. The Cotes du Rhone is produced from 30% Syrah and 70% Grenache, from young vines grown on a variety of vineyards, with clay/limestone and sandy soils. The wine is given a tradition vinification and aged for a period of 12 months in concrete vat. The Petits Coins is grown on a terroir of clay and limestone with small stones from 30 year old vines. The cepage here is 30% Syrah, 50% Grenache and 20% Cinsault. This wine is fermented for some 20 days and given a whole grape maceration. Like the Cotes du Rhone, the Petits Coins is aged in concrete vat, but for a period of 18 months.
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